From a testing time at high school to opening the restaurant of his dreams here in the UAE

World renowned Canadian chef Kelvin Cheung, 42, is literally living his dreams.

Firmly at the helm, as partner and chef, at Jun's, Dubai, the only licensed restaurant on The Boulevard, Cheung’s menu is an ode to the North American Asian food that he grew up with served in a modern format.

A third-generation chef who grew up making cookies in the bakery at his father’s traditional Hong Kong-style Cantonese restaurants in Toronto and Chicago, Cheung followed a natural path, ironically, much to the disappointment of his parents.

School was tough, mostly thanks to lunches being obviously different between kids, but that didn't stop him chasing his dreams.

"Like many traditional Asian parents, my father had other plans for me," said Cheung. "It was a life as a doctor, lawyer, or engineer. He was not so thrilled when I switched my major in university from pre-med and transferred to culinary school.

"But that's the way life goes sometimes."

We chat to Cheung about his latest Dubai venture, which has already captured the hearts and tastebuds of many.

Where did you grow up?

I spent my formative years in Toronto as a first generation Canadian Chinese and moved with my family to Chicago during high school and culinary school.

Did you eat your veggies?

I did, but it was never because I liked them or wanted to be healthy. I did it because I thought it was cool to be with the adults. In my mind, eating a salad was so mature and cool. 

When did you know you wanted to be a chef?

I always knew in my heart that this was my true passion and calling for my life. I followed the path laid out by my parents to pursue my career in the medical field as was the family dream, but I always found reasons to spend more time and help out more at the family restaurant.

Soon after university, and much to my family’s disappointment, I made the formal decision to pursue cooking full-time and dedicate my life to it.

What’s most ironic is that I will do my best to convince my own son not to become a chef. While he loves cooking, I hope he channels that passion into a more flexible career path in the future and becomes the best home cook.

What is your favourite food memory?

Starting baby-led weaning at six months with my son. We skipped the “baby food” and spoon airplanes to let him really participate in the feeding experience. 

Where did you train. How difficult was your training?

I grew up in my father’s kitchen and that was a very different style of cooking than what I learned in culinary school at Kendall College in Chicago and as a new graduate in my first cooking jobs.

Cooking is a difficult  skill that you never truly master, but learning discipline is key to being successful at it. It takes a lifetime in order to perfect the craft, and I am a forever student. 

Where do you get your inspiration?

I get inspiration from  my daily life. Things that I cook for my own family, textures of a building, smells of nature, and so forth. 

There’s a dance you have to learn that balances pushing the boundaries with restraint, so you have to learn to filter the inspiration through experience on what will actually sell. 

Favourite kitchen equipment or gadget?

My offset spatula. I’ve had this tool (it cost 2 US dollars) for over 10 years now and use it to cook, plate, and even cut. 

Best piece of advice you would give a home enthusiast?

Keep cooking and make it as stress free as possible. Home cooking should be relaxing and full of love. If it’s ruined, there’s always take-out.

Do you always make your own meals, or do you occasionally go for a cheeky McDonald’s, or a frozen pizza? 

You won’t find me heating up a frozen pizza, but I do love eating out.

One of my favourites things is being fed in other people’s homes. I also really enjoy eating other chefs’ dishes as it helps me understand their perspective of the industry and world. 

What spices should I add to my repertoire when I'm just causally cooking a chicken breast or something?

Furikake. It’s the ultimate umami bomb.

Would you rather do the cooking or do the washing up afterwards?

Always the cooking. 

What kind of message does cooking for another person express?

Joy. 

Do you still use recipes to cook? If so, where do you get the best ones — friends, family, online, or from cookbooks?

I still use recipes for everything. It is the only way to ensure exact consistency and quality in the kitchen from the whole team.

I find that all recipes are amazing, but people will not always execute them the same.

The key thing to remember is that recipes are guidelines and the person doing the cooking will need to understand the recipe, envision the end product, and the dish will turn out great. 

What’s the most popular dish at Jun's and what’s your spin on it?

Rainbow Heirloom Carrots. 

Upon immigrating to North America, my mother fell in love with bagels topped with smoked salmon and cream cheese.

I’ve recreated the same smokey flavour in a vegetarian form with charred Rainbow Heirloom Baby Carrots served over smoked labneh and topped with candied walnuts - an iconic garnish in American Chinese Walnut Shrimp - as an ode to my Chinese heritage served with house baked sourdough.

Five ‘must-have’ items in your shopping basket

Soya sauce; rice; lemon; eggs; butter.

What do you think is the most challenging ingredient to work with?

Offals. They have a very distinct smell and texture and only cater to a small niche slice of the market.

One favourite cookbook?

Roy Choi’s La Son.

What is going to be the next big thing in the food world?

The next big thing will be the end of “fusion” and the acceptance that food doesn't need labels. Third culture cooking will take over the scene. Real meals.

What do you most love about your job?

Feeding people; nurturing them, and providing them with a complete experience.

What would be your ‘Last Supper’ meal? Your ‘Death Row’ meal, as the late Anthony Bourdain puts it?

Jiro Sushi Omakase, that lasts for three hours!

In the heart of Downtown Dubai on Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard with views of the Burj Khalifa, Jun’s is a space to celebrate coming together.

A modern fine dining experience where the food is simple in presentation and massive in flavour where customers come to celebrate their big wins in life and regulars come to celebrate the everyday joys.  

www.junsdubai.com